If you love to explore quiet coastal paths, hidden coves and atmospheric ruins, historic Guernsey is the island for you. Best of all, it's just a short hop from the UK.
Covering an area of 63 square kilometres, or 24 square miles, Guernsey is a little smaller than its Channel Island neighbour Jersey, but with that comes a little more of a laid-back feel. The locals are friendly and quick to strike up a conversation, while the miles of footpaths make it the perfect destination for keen walkers or trail runners.
Being situated off the coast of France, the history of the island is written all over its shores. On a short tour of the island, you’ll find everything from Napoleonic forts to military bunkers and underground hospitals from the Second World War waiting to be explored.
The Channel Islands are culturally, climatically and geographically very different from the rest of the UK. As a self-governing crown dependency, Guernsey also has its own laws and taxes separate from the rest the United Kingdom. Just like larger, nearby Jersey, the island attracts many tax exiles from around the world. In the 1970s, actor Oliver Reed famously moved to the island to escape what he felt were spiralling British taxes.
It’s not just the tax system which attracts the ex-pats though. The climate is far milder than mainland Britain, with warmer winters and pleasant summers.
What to do
Walking and cycling
Because of its diminutive nature, rather than rushing from site to site, Guernsey is worth taking at a slower speed, soaking up all the experiences it has to offer at a gentle pace. There is no better way to experience slow travel than walking or biking around the island.
If you’re on foot, Guernsey boasts 40 miles (64 kilometres) of well-maintained, idyllic coastal path. You will meander under shady pine copses and see idyllic bays with crystal blue waters as you pass through hundreds of years of maritime history. It’s not only the best way to uncover slowly crumbling Napoleonic and German defences but also the best way to spot the island’s rich wildlife, including marine mammals and of course its iconic puffin.
The path can take between 16 and 24 hours to walk in total, depending on your pace and how often you stop to linger. It’s worth bringing maps or using a navigation app, as although the route might seem straightforward, it does drift inland at times, which can be a little disorienting (although if in doubt always keep the sea on the same side!).
When it comes to cycling, Guernsey offers a full range of hire options with everything from trailers and tag-alongs for families to couple-friendly tandems and e-bikes. For the more adventurous or experienced rider, you can also hire fat tire bikes, trekking and gravel bikes or even a high-performance road bike. Prices start around £30 a day for a standard bike going up to £170 a week for an e-bike.
Ruettes Tranquilles
For both walkers and cyclists, Guernsey’s Ruettes Tranquilles or “quiet roads,” can be a pleasurable way to explore the island away from busy peak-season traffic. A company called Submarine has produced an app available on both iTunes and Google Play, which superimposes walking and cycling routes along these Ruettes Tranquilles over detailed maps of the island.
Heritage sites
The Little Chapel
The Shell Grotto or Little Chapel is one of Guernsey’s most unique and well-loved landmarks. Situated inland at the end of a series of winding lanes, it’s not the easiest of monuments to find but it is worth the effort. Nestled on a tiny hill, close to village of St. Andrew, the tiny chapel was the creation of exiled French monk Brother Déodat. Wanting to create a site which echoed his beloved Lourdes, Déodat began work on the chapel in 1914. After receiving criticism that the 9ft by 4.5 ft chapel was too small he demolished it and built it again in an astonishing four months. Nine years later the chapel was visited by the Bishop of Portsmouth who must have had a much larger stature than Déodat as he couldn’t fit through the door. The perfectionist monk went about demolishing the chapel for a third time, creating the tiny shell and porcelain-covered tiny church we see today.
Though the chapel is free to enter, consider leaving a donation to help with the upkeep of the building.
German Underground Hospital
During World War II the Channel Islands fell under German control. There are reminders of this all over Guernsey; none more so than the German Underground Hospital, not far from the airport, in the sleepy centre of the island. This brutalist structure was constructed in 1942-43 using forced labour, originally as a military shelter. The site covers 6,950 square metres (75,000 square feet) and was the largest wartime construction on the Channel Islands.
As you can imagine, it isn’t the most pleasant place to visit. There is no natural light, it’s cold, dank and there are chilling stories on information boards throughout this maze of tunnels. Author Glynis Cooper has even conjectured that the plans of the building match those of the gas chambers in Auschwitz rather more than they do that of a typical hospital. Still, though it makes for an occasionally disquieting visit, it is certainly a memorable one.
The hospital is open for self-guided visits from 10.00am to 4.00pm, with last admissions at 3.00pm, Friday-Monday in April & October, and daily from May-September. It costs £5 per adult.
Beaches
Guernsey is blessed with plenty of beautiful beaches. Because of its unique geography, the seas can be shallow much further out than on your average beach, which means the water requires less energy to warm it in the summer sun. So, although not as warm as the Mediterranean, you’re guaranteed warmer toes than you might find at Morecambe.
Petit Bot Bay
With toilets, a small café, and a restaurant just inland, Petit Bot Bay is a perfect quiet day spot for a splash and sunbathe. With perfect sandcastle-building sand and plenty of rock pools, it’s a great place to bring families. What’s more, it is large enough to accommodate reasonable numbers of people without feeling crowded, even in high season. The café offers simple food like ice cream, chips, and soup, which thankfully come at reasonable prices. There are also more substantial dishes, often cooked with local fish.
Petit Port
If you want something farther off the beaten track, head down the 270 steps to the stunning beach of Petit Port. It’s best visited on foot or by bike as the parking is limited, but the reward for all that effort is a beautiful, tucked-away cove that you are likely to have all to yourself!
Alternatively, another of the most popular beaches on the island is Vazon Bay on the west coast. With easy parking, toilets, and cafés, it can get busy but measuring more than a mile and a half in length, it’s unlikely that you’ll be elbow-to-elbow with surfers and sunbathers.
Other beaches
Cobo Bay is another lovely beach worth considering. It has sea-view restaurants and crystal-clear water, ideal for a late afternoon dip.
Portelet Bay and Moulin Huet Bay are two quiet, secluded beaches. Moulin Huet is the quieter of the two, but both are well away from the crowds, even at the height of the season.
Fishing
Guernsey has a rich array of marine life and can be a fantastic place to fish. For beach fishing, the sea takes a while to deepen in most places, so if you are a classic wader-and-rod angler, you’ll need to wade quite far before you catch anything. It’s best to go at high tide; you can try Vazon, Pembroke Bay, or Saints Bay, where you might catch bass.
The marina and breakwater at St Peter Port can be a little more productive. Here, you might get lucky with mackerel, bream, or dogfish. For family fishing, head to Havelet Slipway or Guernsey Yacht Club. These are perfect for beginners, no matter their age.
In the east of the island, visit the picturesque fishing harbour of Bec du Nez. A quiet little paradise overlooking Sark, it’s the best spot on the island if you're looking to unwind as you cast out.
Chartered fishing trips
If deep-sea fishing is what you prefer, Guernsey has a good number of charter boats to take you out to sea. One of the most respected is Out of the Blue (www.boatfishing.net). With Richard Seager at the helm, his boats can take up to 12 people, from children and families to groups of friends.
Wild swimming
With crystal-clear blue waters and hidden bays and coves, Guernsey is a wild swimmer's paradise. Moulin Huet is a favourite spot with locals. It’s an easy swim, especially close to shore, but do follow the signs and keep away from rocky areas!
As mentioned earlier, Petit Bot is not only a fantastic beach but also a great spot for a dip. Its secluded shores are protected from the choppiest of the coastal waters, and there is a nice steady slope into the sea. There are places for both beginners and more advanced swimmers to take to the waves.
La Vallette Bathing Pools are technically only half wild, but the historic tidal bathing pools at La Vallette in St Peter Port are a Victorian-era treat! The pools fill with seawater at high tide, providing a safe space away from the worst of the Atlantic swell.
Stand-up paddleboarding
After a meteoric rise during the COVID-19 pandemic, stand-up paddleboarding (SUP) has established itself as one of the UK’s top amateur sports. You have to pick your spots wisely in Guernsey, as the choppy waters of the Atlantic can make the sport challenging in places. If you are a beginner, need equipment, or fancy the thought of SUPing with a group, it’s well worth checking out Guernsey SUP (www.guernseysup.com).
They offer 1-to-1 lessons, guided tours, and safaris, along with board and equipment hire. If you have the equipment and know-how, head to some of the more secluded bays such as Pembroke Bay or the tree-lined hills of Havelet Bay. These have calm waters suitable for both SUP and kayaks.
Surfing
Admittedly, Guernsey will never compete with the best surfing spots in Cornwall, but its two main surfing hotspots, Vazon Bay and the beginner’s spot of Grandes Rocques Bay, can make for a thrilling day catching waves. Being in the Atlantic, the swell can be dramatic, especially during the winter, and a Christmas surf at Vazon Bay shouldn’t disappoint. For board hire, lessons, and more for all ages, go to Guernsey Surf School in Vazon Bay.
Climate
Guernsey has a pleasant maritime climate that is similar to that of northern France. The temperatures during the winter are mild and it rarely, if ever, drops below zero degrees centigrade. If you don’t like extreme heat, a Guernsey summer can be perfectly pleasant with temperatures in July and August averaging at 20ºC.
Rainfall
Unlike parts of the UK such as the South West of England, Wales or Northern Scotland, prolonged rain is rare in Guernsey. There are some summer showers but on the whole rain is brief and not too heavy throughout the year. If you are looking to avoid the wet weather then steer clear of visiting during November, December and January when rain is most frequent. Instead come from May to September when it is less likely to rain, and the weather is warm and sunny.
Getting around
By car
With a car ferry regularly serving both mainland France and England, it’s easy to arrive and travel around in your own car. The roads can get busy close to the main towns such as St Peter’s Port, especially when the ferries come in. However, as you travel inland you are more likely to be held up by passing cows than queues of traffic.
Driving in Guernsey is a little different than in the rest of the UK. You will regularly see 35mph speed limits rather than 30mph, and a yellow line across an exit means stop, while one on the side of the road means no stopping. Finally, a ‘Filter in turn’ sign means just that – you should take turns to filter out of a junction.
You may also see ‘disc parking zones’ around the island. You can’t park in these without a parking disc (a cardboard ‘clock’ which states your time of arrival). These are available from the ferry, police stations and tourist information centres.
If you want to hire a car, you will find various options at the airport. When making your selection, bear in mind that many of the inland roads on the island are single lane tracks and best suited to a smaller car.
By bus
Guernsey buses are run by a company called CT Plus. They have recently launched an app showing you routes, fares and timetables. Buses are paid for by card or pre-bought pay-as-you-go passes. Getting around is very easy, with 24 different routes covering all major towns and tourist attractions.
Getting there
Whether you visit for a week of walking or a weekend’s R&R, Guernsey has plenty to offer the traveller. It’s within easy reach of either the UK or France and its amiable people, climate and stunning beaches make it a perfect place for a short getaway.
Via ferry
From the UK
Gurnsey is just a 3-hour ferry crossing from Poole, close to Bournemouth in Dorset, on the South Coast of England. This means it is possible to visit Guernsey on a day trip, though we’d recommend staying longer. A second ferry also runs from Portsmouth via Jersey. This is a much longer 7-hour journey but could be useful if you wish to take in both islands as part of a longer trip.
Ferries run from the speedier Poole port on Fridays and weekends during the peak season, returning either during the weekend or Monday morning. Weekday crossings are more regular from Portsmouth so you may have to factor in more time should you wish to cross from here.
Ferries still run in the winter but mostly from Portsmouth and they are subject to weather conditions, so do check before you book your accommodation.
From France
Although under British rule, the Channel Islands are geographically much closer to mainland France, so ferries between the two countries are much quicker than from the British mainland. Taking as little as an hour and twenty minutes, ferries run from Cherbourg, St Malo and Dielette.
As a stop off
It is possible to travel to Guernsey either overnight or just for the afternoon as part of a trip between England and Britanny. During the summer this can be more than enough time to take in one of the many beaches and grab something to eat before continuing your journey.
Via aeroplane
Guernsey has a small but reasonably well served airport with flights coming in from London (City Airport), Birmingham, Southampton, Edinburgh, Paris, Bristol, Gatwick and Dublin. One of the main carriers is Aurigny but you may find flights from Blueislands and Logan Air in smaller airports in Ireland and north of London.
Flying to the island can feel like a step back in time as all the planes are small (19-72 passengers), propeller-driven aircraft rather than the larger passenger jets you may be used to.
Planes are nicknamed ‘flying-sheds’ by some of the locals, because of their diminutive size. These smaller planes can be noisy, are less cushioned from turbulence and landings can feel a little bumpy. However, they do feel more adventurous, the views are less obscured by giant wings or jet engines and the flights can be cosy, friendly affairs.
Places to eat and drink
Auberge du Val
Using the best quality ingredients, including freshly caught seafood caught and locally grown herbs and vegetables Auberge du Val serves up some of the best food on the island. It’s always a good sign when locals visit restaurants, and you’ll find a healthy mix of islanders, tourists and business visitors dining in this superb establishment.
Le Nautique
Another fantastic seafood restaurant is Le Nautique, Guernsey’s oldest established restaurant. Again, the menu focuses on locally caught seafood so if fish, crab and shellfish are your thing, this is the perfect place to go.
La Fregate
Not all the menus in Guernsey are fish or seafood-focused and La Fregate, with stunning views over St Peter Port, offers dishes for vegetarians, vegans and those with restricted diets (such as gluten free).
Buho
For something a bit livelier, Buho is the place to be. The music is loud, the burritos and tacos are spicy, and the rum, tequila, gin or vodka cocktails pack a punch to set you up for a lively, fun-packed evening.
Love Shack
For a quick bite to eat which won’t break the bank, check out the Love Shack in St. Peter Port. Serving burgers and kebabs, it’s ideal for lunch on the go.
The Raw Store
Finally, for a light vegan or vegetarian lunch you’d do a lot worse than visit the Raw Store. This health food shop and café does great wraps and salads to eat in or takeaway.
Where to stay
The Old Government House Hotel and Spa
Guernsey attracts many high-end visitors who flock to the only five-star hotel on the island, The Old Government House Hotel & Spa in the heart of St Peter’s Port. Offering rooms and suites with spectacular views, individual styles and high-end comfort, the hotel beings a touch of luxury to this tiny island.
The Farmhouse Hotel
If you want something a little more laid-back the Farmhouse Hotel is a four-star, relaxed countryside establishment, not far from the airport. The perfect winter getaway, you can while away a dark winter evening with a fireside meal in their award-winning restaurant.
Pandora Hotel
For those coming to the island on an active break, the 3-star Pandora Hotel was recently voted the best option on the island for walkers and cyclists. It has singles, doubles and family rooms at affordable prices with en-suite facilities and comfortable beds.
Camping
Guernsey has a number of camping options, from glamping and cabin options to standard pitch-ups. La Bailloterie Camping has well maintained pods and cabins along with tree-lined pitches. They never over-book the site so campers have more than enough room to spread out.
Dave Hamilton is a photographer, forager and explorer of historic sites and natural places. A father of two boys, he writes for BBC Wildlife, Countryfile, and Walk magazines.
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