Cornwall occupies a place in the British imagination quite unlike anywhere else on the mainland. Thrust out into the Atlantic at England’s southwestern tip, it is the country’s longest peninsula – roughly 70 miles from the Tamar, the river that marks its eastern border with Devon, to Land’s End, where the road runs out and the ocean takes over.
On coastlines, Cornwall has more than 300 miles of them, ranging from the wide, Atlantic-facing beaches of the north – Fistral, Perranporth, Sennen – where long swells roll in and surf culture has taken firm root, to the sheltered coves and turquoise shallows of the south coast, where creeks push inland and fishing villages cling to steep hillsides above working harbours. The contrast between the two coasts is striking: the north is raw and open, the south quieter and more intricate, full of hidden inlets and estuaries that the sea fills twice a day. In between lies a granite spine of moorland – Bodmin Moor at its most expansive – where ancient standing stones and ruined engine houses from Cornwall’s tin and copper mining past punctuate a landscape that can feel remote.
That sense of history is woven into Cornwall’s identity. It is one of the six Celtic nations, sharing cultural and linguistic roots with Wales and Brittany, and the Cornish language, Kernewek, still lives in the place names that roll off every map: Penzance, Perranporth, Polzeath, Polperro. The landscape itself feels ancient, too – characteristic with weathered cliffs, wind-bent hedgerows and granite farmsteads that have sat in the same fields for centuries.
Cornish food follows the land and sea closely. Crab landed at Padstow, oysters from the Helford River, mackerel grilled at a beach shack in Mousehole – Cornwall’s larder is as much about provenance as it is about flavour, making the county one of England’s most interesting places to eat, with a clutch of serious restaurants alongside straightforward, no-nonsense fish-and-chip shops and bakeries producing proper pastiest. The local ales, gins and ciders, too – many made just a few miles from where you drink them – are an equally worthwhile pursuit. In this field guide, you’ll find not just places to see and things to do in Cornwall, but a sense of how this remarkable peninsula holds together – the wild coast and the working land, the deeply local and the perennially visited.
Throughout Cornwall, there’s a treasure trove of history waiting to be discovered. Whether that’s clambering through ancient castles and learning more about the legend of King Arthur, or unearthing the county’s unique mining heritage – and the relevance it holds today. Here’s what we recommend.
On Cornwall’s rugged north coast, you’ll find Tintagel Castle – arguably one of the most magical places in the county. Known as the legendary birthplace of King Arthur, this major dark age stronghold is now formed by dramatic ruins and a modern footbridge that connects visitors with Merlin’s Cave. As you explore the 13th-century castle, keep an eye out for Gallos, a life-size bronze statue of an ancient king keeping an unflinching watch over the crashing seas below, while local beach cafés serve up hearty local fare.
A 19th-century engine house perched on a cliff on Cornwall’s Tin Coast, Botallack was also used more recently as a filming location for BBC’s Poldark – where the mine clings dramatically to the cliffs, offering a perfect glimpse into Cornwall’s past. The two 19th-century granite towers cling to the cliff face above the Atlantic Ocean, before a path drops down from the clifftop to the higher of the two, though the lower should be avoided due to unstable ground. For those so inclined, the Count House Café, just off the South West Coast Path, is the natural place to decompress afterwards with good coffee, sea views and cake.
Rising from the waters of Mount’s Bay off the south coast, St Michael’s Mount is Cornwall’s most arresting sight – a medieval castle and monastery perched on a tidal island, connected to the village of Marazion by a cobbled causeway that appears and disappears with the tide. At low water, you can walk across; at high tide, small passenger ferries make the crossing in minutes. The island has been inhabited for centuries and the castle, still home to the St Aubyn family who have lived here since the 17th century, is open to visitors through the National Trust.
The Grade II-listed King Edward Mine Museum has been largely untouched and unaltered for over a century and was used as a place to teach practical mining from 1897 until 2005. Guests can learn from local experts who show firsthand how the tin was processed, the mine’s original equipment and the exact process – from pulverisation to the separation of ore from rock – that was the mainstay of the mine.
Found between Truro and St. Austell, the verdant Caerhays Castle and Gardens overlooks Porthluney Cove on the south Cornish coast. Since 1370 only two families have resided at the castle, also home to 140 acres of beautiful woodland gardens and a National Magnolia Collection that attracts plenty of visitors during spring, with the best months to visit being March, April and May. Nearby, the beautiful (and dog-friendly) Caerhays Beach is absolutely worth a visit. It’s an excellent spot for swimming, where rock formations can be also explored on the west side at low tide.
Cornwall is Britain’s surf capital, and has been since the sport first washed up on Fistral Beach in the 1960s. The north coast bears the full force of Atlantic swells, and the beaches here – Fistral, Sennen, Perranporth, Polzeath – offer some of the most consistent waves in the country, working across a wide range of conditions and abilities. Surf schools operate up and down the coast year-round, with board hire and wetsuit rental straightforward to arrange. For experienced surfers, the reef break at Porthleven on the south coast is one of the most serious waves in England, best left to those who know what they’re doing. Water temperatures rarely climb above 16°C even in summer, so a wetsuit is non-negotiable – though that’s never seemed to put anyone off.
Cornwall’s coastline is punctuated with natural swimming spots that reward those willing to find them. Sheltered coves on the south coast – including Kynance, Lamorna and Porthcurno – offer calm, startlingly clear water and the kind of scenery that makes it hard to get out of the water. The north coast is wilder and colder, with bigger swells and rockier entries, but the reward is space and drama in equal measure. For something more contained, the tidal Jubilee lido at Penzance and Bude Sea Pool offer a reliable and beautiful alternative when the sea is too rough to contemplate. Tides and currents demand respect everywhere, while local knowledge goes a long way too, so don’t be shy if you’ve got questions.
The South West Coast Path is the spine of any walking itinerary in Cornwall. The longest national trail in England at 630 miles in total, the Cornish stretch alone accounts for the majority of it – running from the Tamar estuary in the east all the way to Land’s End and beyond, tracing every headland, cove and inlet along the way. Most people walk it in sections rather than end to end, and almost any stretch rewards the effort. The coastal section between Zennor and St Ives is among the finest few hours of walking in Britain, while the Lizard peninsula offers the added pull of the most southerly point in mainland England and a coastline that shifts colour – serpentine rock giving the coves around Kynance a greenish, almost tropical hue – unlike anywhere else in the county. Good boots are advisable year-round; the path has a habit of being muddier than it looks.
Cornwall’s network of disused mine and railway lines has been steadily converted into off-road cycling routes that thread through some of the county’s most rewarding scenery. The Camel Trail runs for 17 miles from Bodmin through Wadebridge and out to Padstow along a traffic-free path that follows the estuary for much of its length – flat, accessible and ending at one of Cornwall’s best towns for food. Further west, the Mineral Tramways network crosses the old mining heartland between Redruth and the coast, with waymarked routes linking engine houses, woodland and clifftop views. Road cyclists will find the peninsula more punishing than it looks on a map – the lanes are narrow, the hills a little unforgiving and the headwinds off the Atlantic entirely uninterested in your plans – but the rewards, particularly on the Lizard and around Penwith, are worth the sweat.
Across Cornwall’s 400+ mile coastline, it’s estimated there’s around 300 to 400 beaches dotted throughout, from sandy shores to rocky coves and inlets. Cornwall’s north coast is better for surfing and choppier waters, while the south coast is considered to be calmer.
In Cornwall’s southwest corner, Pedn Vounder is a tucked-away sandy beach famed for its clear (and, if the weather is playing ball, almost turquoise) water, reached by scrambling down a rocky cliff. There’s no need for advanced fitness to get to the beach; so just pack a pair of trainers for the walk. You’ll be rewarded with stunning coastal views and beautiful sand banks at low tide.
A short two miles from Penzance, Marazion’s broad, west-facing beach is one of the best in Cornwall. With a view of St Michael’s Mount sitting in the water just offshore, it’s one of the best views in the county, particularly at sunset when the light catches the granite walls and the causeway slowly disappears beneath the tide.
With the historic town of St. Ives a five-minute walk away, Porthmeor Beach offers the ideal base for relaxation, swimming, local exploration and surfing, with nearby St Ives Surf School offering lessons on surfing and paddleboarding, plus kayaking tours and coasteering adventures. A beach café serves up ice cream, coffees, teas and local beers.
On the Lizard peninsula, so-named as it’s two miles from Cornwall’s Lizard Point, is Kynance Cove – part of an outcrop of land on the South Coast that’s the UK’s most southerly point – widely considered to be one of Cornwall’s best beaches. Nearby, the Lizard Coastal Walk offers 11km of beautiful inland walking from the coast of Kynance Cove.
Cornwall is the warmest and sunniest corner of England, warmed by the Gulf Stream and shielded from the worst of the British winter by its southwesterly position. Summers are mild and generally reliable, with average temperatures around 18 to 21°C and long evenings that linger well into dusk. The Atlantic keeps things from ever getting truly hot, which suits most people just fine. Winters are considerably milder than the rest of the country – snow is a rarity – though the north coast takes the full force of Atlantic storms between October and March, which is either a deterrent or a draw depending on your outlook. Rain falls year-round and the shoulder seasons of spring and autumn are often the best time to visit: quieter, greener and still warm enough for most outdoor pursuits.
Cornwall is a long, narrow peninsula and getting from one end to the other takes longer than a map suggests – the A30 is the main artery running west from Exeter to Penzance, but it slows considerably in summer, particularly around Bodmin and on the approach to Truro. A car is by far the most practical way to explore, opening up the smaller coves, moorland tracks and village backroads that public transport simply doesn’t reach. Parking can be tight in the most popular spots during peak season, so arriving early pays off.
That said, the rail connections are surprisingly good. The main line from London Paddington runs to directly to Penzance – including the pet-friendly Night Riviera sleeper train, complete with cabins and an onboard lounge – as do other services originating in Reading, Cardiff Central, Bristol Temple Meads, Taunton, Exeter St Davids and Plymouth.
For those flying, Newquay Airport offers year-round connections to London Gatwick and Stansted and a handful of regional airports including Manchester, Newcastle, Edinburgh, Glasgow, Aberdeen and Belfast. It’s the most convenient option for reaching the north coast quickly, though the range of destinations is limited compared to Exeter, which sits just over the border and connects to a broader network including Jersey, Amsterdam, Palma de Mallorca and Málaga.
Buses cover the main towns and coastal resorts reasonably well in summer, with Go Cornwall Bus operating most routes across the county. Travelling between smaller villages by bus requires patience and careful planning – services thin out quickly off the main corridors and stop altogether in some areas during winter. For cyclists, the Camel Trail and Mineral Tramways offer traffic-free alternatives between key points, though for anything more ambitious, quiet lanes and the coast path remain the best options.
Cornwall’s food scene has grown considerably in recent years, but the best eating still tends to be rooted in what’s local and in season – crab, lobster, mackerel, oysters and salt-marsh lamb, much of it landed or reared within a few miles of the plate.
For an introduction to the county’s seafood, Falmouth’s various fish counters are a reliable and unpretentious starting point – from proper fish, oysters and mussels, best eaten outside with gulls overhead, to take-home fillets of locally-caught fish. In Padstow, Rick Stein’s original Seafood Restaurant remains the standard-bearer for Cornish seafood cooking, though the town’s harbour-side chippie, Stein’s Fish & Chips, delivers much the same ingredients for a fraction of the price. Naturally, a Cornish pasty – properly made, with beef skirt, potato, swede and a thick crimped crust – is non-negotiable, and Ann’s Pasties in Lizard village is widely considered the best in the county.
Further up the scale, The Gurnard’s Head near Zennor punches well above its weight for a remote moorland pub, with a short, seasonal menu. In St Ives, Porthminster Beach Café combines an unbeatable setting above the beach with genuinely accomplished cooking (from around £40 per head). For a special occasion, Michelin-starred Paul Ainsworth at No. 6 in Padstow is Cornwall’s most celebrated restaurant. The menu is inventive, local and worth the splurge at around £80 per head.
Cornwall has accommodation to suit most budgets, though be mindful that prices spike sharply in July and August and booking well in advance is essential for anything decent during peak season.
For campers, Cornwall is exceptionally well served. Sites range from basic clifftop fields to well-equipped family parks, with the best pitches booking out months ahead in summer. Trevedra Farm near Sennen Cove sits within walking distance of one of Cornwall’s finest beaches and offers simple, well-positioned pitches with big Atlantic views (from around £20 per night). Higher Moors on the Lizard peninsula is a quieter, more remote option for those after solitude and dark skies (from around £18 per night).
A step up, Cornwall’s B&Bs and guesthouses are often the most characterful places to stay and come in many forms – granite farmhouses, converted fishermen’s cottages and Georgian townhouses with good breakfasts and owners who actually know the area. The Gurnard’s Head near Zennor doubles as one of the best pubs on the north coast, with simple, well-appointed rooms above the bar (from around £160 per night including breakfast). In Padstow, Rick Stein’s Seafood Restaurant rooms offer comfortable, unfussy accommodation in the middle of town (from around £180 per night).
For something more boutique, the Rosevine near Portscatho on the Roseland peninsula is a relaxed, apartment-style hotel above a sheltered south coast beach – particularly good for families (from around £250 per night). The Idle Rocks in St Mawes is a smarter option on the waterfront, with well-designed rooms and a serious kitchen (from around £280 per night).
At the luxury end, Carbis Bay Hotel near St Ives offers a private beach, spa and considerable comfort in a clifftop setting (from around £400 per night). For the most special occasion, The Nare on the Roseland peninsula is a traditional country house hotel above Carne Beach – unhurried, beautifully kept and genuinely old-fashioned in the best possible sense (from around £450 per night including dinner and breakfast).
Ed Cooper is a freelance journalist, specialising in travel, lifestyle, fitness/wellness and tech. A former editor of Men’s Health, he’s worked with renowned brands and publications including British Airways, Guardian Labs, Red Bull, Mazda, Wired, British GQ and more.
