From magnificent crumbling fortresses to remnants of once-mighty industries that shaped the history of our nation, explore some of Britain’s best ruins on your next weekend hike.
Britain’s history sets it apart from much of the rest of Europe. As an island it was always part of a big melting pot of different cultures of migrants and invaders. Castles were erected to protect and defend, whilst churches and monasteries were home to a growing Christian population. Britain was also one of the earliest countries to industrialise on a large scale. The remains of all these different influences are just waiting to be discovered. So why not explore some of the nation’s best ruins on your next hike?
Hadleigh Castle, Essex
Hadleigh Castle is a magnificent ruined fortress within the 387-acre Hadleigh Country Park. Although the castle dates back to the 13th century, most of what you see was built in the 1360s. As you might expect for a castle of this age, it’s had a long and diverse history. Overlooking the Thames Estuary, it was originally built to defend from French attacks and was later a lookout for revenue men searching for smugglers. In more recent years, it was home to the London 2012 Olympics mountain bike trails. The adrenalin-fuelled descent and heart-stopping jumps still stand, so it remains a great place to go mountain biking. There are courses to suit all abilities, from advanced thrill-seekers to novice riders and children.
How to get there
[By car]Hadleigh Country Park is large enough to have its own brown ‘tourist attraction’ signs from nearby major roads. From Hadleigh take the right-hand turning just after McDonalds onto Castle Lane. After a little under ½ mile, park up either side of Castle Lane (if there is room) or in the car park on Castle Avenue. The castle is a short walk south of here, continuing on Castle Lane.
Magpie Mine, Derbyshire
Close to Monsal Dale and Ashford in the Water, a short walk from the village of Sheldon, stands the ruin of Magpie Mine. The Cornish-style engine house is near-complete, as is the headframe, which would have ferried men and materials from the mine below. The mine hasn’t been active since the 1950s but it has a long and somewhat chequered history. In the 1830s, 24 men from Magpie were put on trial for murdering 3 men from Maypitt mine, a neighbouring mine which shared the same vein of lead. Fires had been lit underground, which caused the three men to asphyxiate from the fumes. Ultimately no-one was convicted for the crime as in an age before fingerprints and DNA evidence, it was impossible to convict the right individuals. However, the wives of Maypitt were said to have laid a curse on Magpie and this is often cited as the reason behind the mine’s ongoing cycle of new owners, bankruptcy and closure many times over the next century.
How to get there
[By car] From Buxton, head past the Morrisons in the east of the town on the A6, continuing for 5 miles. The road becomes a dual-carriageway here. Take the second right towards Taddington village. At the village take the first right towards Flagg. Continue to the crossroads and take a left. Take the right towards Flagg, next left, then drive to a pull-in on the right next to a cattle grid. The mine is an easy 5-10 minute walk from here.
New Slains Castle, Aberdeenshire
Perched on a cliff top, with a commanding view of the raging North Sea, New Slains holds a dramatic position on the Scottish coast. Situated just a few miles south of Peterhead, the castle is thought to be the inspiration for Bram Stoker’s Castle Dracula. Photos don’t really do this grand ruin justice. Its intricate maze of rooms and corridors are completely left open to the elements. Apparently, there are plans to turn the building into a holiday complex, making it a site worth visiting sooner rather than later.
How to get there
[By car] New Slains is near Cruden Bay, which is off the A90. It’s about 45 minutes/ 24 miles north of Aberdeen and 15 minutes/8 miles south of Peterhead. From Cruden Bay, drive north on the A975 (Errolston Road) for a mile. Pass the ruined farm buildings and park in the small car park on the right, as the road bears sharply to the left. Walk the seashell-covered track for 10 minutes/half a mile to reach the castle.|
Botallack Head Mine, Cornwall
The twin buildings at Botallack Head mine have become one of Cornwall’s most iconic sites. Surrounded by the wild waves of the Atlantic Ocean, the two buildings often bear witness to intense storms. In the 19th century the mine became part of a growing tourist trend to visit dangerous industrial sites. Even after the inevitable happened and a party of 8 fell to their deaths down one of the deep shafts, the visits continued, even attracting a couple of royals to the site. This circular route takes in the fascinating sites of Botallack, Chun Castle and Cape Cornwall.
How to get there
[By car] Follow the B3306 north out of St Just. After Tregeseal, at Botallack village take the left fork. Pass the Queen’s Arms (TR19 7QG) and turn left at the corner (limited parking), past the farm and Botallack Manor. You will see a mine chimney straight ahead, on the coast, and the road becomes a dirt track. There are mining remains to explore all over the place here but the iconic engine houses stand below the cliffs - an easy 15-minute walk.
[Via public transport] There are mainline trains to Penzance and the 10a bus will take you to Botallack village (the 300 bus route also runs in the summer months).
Castle Sinclair, Caithness
Heading up the coast from New Slains, almost as far as you can go, Castle Sinclair stands precariously on a cliff edge amidst puffins and seabirds in a landscape of sea stacks and caves. Strong winds coming off the North Sea have nearly toppled the castle into the sea on a number of occasions, so the present building has been restored and made safe to allow for visitors.
How to get there
[By car] Follow the A99 to Wick and take the second exit to River Street, then the first exit onto Victoria Place. Take the next right and follow the road as it veers left. Go right at the T-junction onto Willowbank. Stay on the road until you reach a football field and a postbox on the edge of town. Turn left here and follow the road to Noss Head for 1 mile. Take a right and continue for a mile, then pull into the car park. The castle is a ½ mile/10-minute moderate walk from the car park.
Llanthony Priory, Monmouthshire
One of the only ruins in the country with a pub attached, Llanthony Priory lies in splendid isolation in the Vale of Ewyas, in the shadow of the Black Mountains. Once one of the grandest buildings in Wales, it was established in the 12th century, although much of what you see today dates back to the 14th when it was rebuilt. Situated just off the Cambrian Way, the Beacons Way, the Offa’s Dyke Path and criss-crossed by countless other small footpaths, Llanthony is a walkers’ and backpackers’ paradise. There is also a small, very basic campsite close to the priory that is perfect for a bit of ‘nearly wild’ camping.
How to get there
[By car, bike or on foot] Llanthony lies between Abergavenny and the famous ‘book town’ of Hay on Wye. It’s best reached from Abergavenny, taking the A465 to Pandy where you should take a left at the Pandy Inn to head under the railway bridge onto a long winding road. The winding road will eventually come out at Llanthony – this can be done either in a car or on a bike. The best walking route is to head along the Offa’s Dyke Path over the Black Mountains, descending once you see the ruins down in the valley.
Anglesey Barracks, Dinorwig, Eryri (Snowdonia)
Though its name might suggest otherwise, this evocative ruin is not to be found on the isle of Anglesey. Instead, it is located halfway up a mountain above Dinorwig Quarry, a former slate quarry near Llanberis, in Eryri (Snowdonia). The two rows of roofless, slate stone cottages get their name from the vast number of quarrymen who would commute each week from Anglesey to work in the quarry. The cottages acted as their lodgings right up until a building inspector condemned them in the late 1940s. The buildings can be taken in as a brief diversion off the Snowdonia Slate Trail, an 83-mile loop that tours the remains of the once-mighty Welsh slate industry within the boundaries of Eryri National Park.
How to get there
From the National Slate Museum just outside Llanberis (free to enter but fee for car park), head back out down the road towards the quarry’s barriers. Take the path on the left behind the power company sign and map. Pass by a ruined winch, and over the bridge. If you keep to the blue path, the barracks will be on the right near a green sign.
John the Baptist, Croxton, Norfolk
In the beautiful North Norfolk countryside lies St John the Baptist, a gloriously overgrown ruin tucked away in the sleepy hamlet of Croxton. The dense cherry laurel which has engulfed the church hides this little gem out of view, in its own little copse. Although most of the church was rebuilt in the 15th and 17th centuries, it’s thought that parts of it may date as far back as the Domesday book. The church was left to be slowly reclaimed by nature when its rector decided that rather than make repairs to this and the neighbouring church of St Mary’s at Fulmodeston (just half a mile down the road and also well worth a visit), he would abandon both and build a new church altogether. Both churches lie in ruins to this day.
How to get there
[By car] From the A148, head north past Fakenham. Take a right at the crossroads in Little Snoring, head past the brick-built barns at Croxton Farm and take the next right down the lane – look out for the ruined church on your left at the end of the lane.
Redsand Fort, Thames Estuary
Standing like alien tripods, the towers at Redsand in the Thames Estuary are just one of many Maunsell Forts built to protect British shores from German minelayers and aircraft during the Second World War. They are named after civil engineer Guy Maunsell, their designer. After the war, the large steel structures were subsequently occupied by illegally operating pirate radio stations. They were close enough to bounce a signal to the mainland but far enough offshore to be outside British waters (and therefore, British jurisdiction). Redsand is one of the most iconic and frequently visited of the Maunsell Forts.
How to get there
Since they’re located several miles offshore, you’ll need good sea legs for this one! To visit the forts, it is best to travel though Project Redsand. This charity runs boat trips via a marine partner from Queenborough on the Isle of Sheppey, Kent. It takes just over an hour to reach the forts via boat. www.project-redsand.com
Piel Castle, Morecambe Bay
The British Isles actually comprises hundreds of tiny islands, many of which make for fantastic walks. Although Piel Island may not be the biggest, it is one of the most rewarding to visit. Little more than 500m from end to end, the island boasts an atmospheric ruined castle, a cosy pub and a small row of houses. The island also permits wild camping, so it is possible to have a night out in the Ship Inn with no need to return to the mainland.
How to get there
There is a small ferry running from Roa Island, a little south of Barrow in Furness, which runs between 11am and 5pm if the weather is good. Alternatively, skilled sea kayakers and small boats often make the voyage across to the island.
Dave Hamilton is a photographer, forager and explorer of historic sites and natural places. A father of two boys, he writes for BBC Wildlife, Countryfile, and Walk magazines.
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